Friday, 30 January 2015
Black Star Pastry’s Ultimo cafe opened only a few short weeks ago, bringing the award-winning flavours of its pies, cakes and more to the considerably more family-friendly surrounds of the Sydney Powerhouse Museum. Among some of the best you’ll find there are the beef brisket burger and the strawberry and watermelon cake. Parents will love how the sausage rolls, with their amazingly textured pastry, are also packed with finely chopped vegetables (just don’t mention it too loudly in front of the kids).
For today’s Cookie Safari, we tried the Naked Ninja, a variation on their Ginger Ninja. It’s a straight-up gingerbread man and, as you can see from today’s photo, it’s only wearing a belt. Thank heavens the cookie cutters they used aren’t anatomically correct, because that would’ve been super-awkward to chow down on.
The Naked Ninja is soft and moist to bite down on, with a texture that’s just shy of a crumbly as it enters your mouth. It’s perfectly sized as a quick snack, two to three bites at the most; and it seems to go light on the sugar, too, so you won’t feel too guilty about scoffing one down.
But for a cookie that goes easy on the flavour enhancers, it doesn’t quite compensate with enough flavour. In fact, you could accuse the Naked Ninja of being altogether bland. It only redeems itself in the moments after it’s gone down the hatch, and a spicy aftertaste kicks in with a warm glow – kind of what I was hoping for while I was biting down into it.
And herein lays the problem: it needs something else, something to complement the ginger flavour during the initial bite. At Flour and Stone, they use icing sugar. Here? I’d suggest a thin layer of unsweetened, dark chocolate that encourages you search for the flavour.
As it is, however, it’s only slightly better than what you’d find at the supermarket.
Rating out of 10 (where 10 = ermahgerd this is amazeballs; 5 = meh; and 0 = I want my money back):
6.5 – Needs chocolate
Where: Black Star Pastry, 500 Harris Street Street (cnr Macarthur Street), Ultimo NSW 2007. It’s a solid 20-minute walk west from Central, Museum and Town Hall Stations. By bus, the 501 stops at the front door. Local parking in the blocks west of the Powerhouse Museum isn’t too difficult to find.
How much: $2.50 each.
About Kevvie’s Cookie Safari: People have been telling me for years that my wife’s chocolate chip cookies are the best they’ve ever eaten. It didn’t occur to me until now to test the claim. But if you’re interested, she uses a Jacques Torres recipe from the book ‘A Year in Chocolate’.